Sunday, August 17, 2008

Chris Christensen "Best Pet Brush"

The Chris Christensen 16 mm T-Brush, a pet brush for all reasons. Most importantly, this brush will separate hair and remove loose undercoat with a minimum of coat damage. Coat damage occurs when hairs are broken or hair cuticles are ravaged by grooming, play, and weather. Just about everything causes hair damage, and accumulates into generalized coat damage. It cannot be avoided, only minimized.

The tools, products, and procedures we use to maintain our pets' coats, as well as our dog's lifestyle all effect the amount of hair damage that accumulates. Today we are looking specifically at brushes.

The most valuable feature of the Chris Christensen brushes is that they are all made with tapered and polished pins. Many pin brushes, especially the cheaper ones, are made by simply chopping off the pins and pushing them through the pad. The bottoms are then hammered flat. This leaves the tips of the pins rough and abrasive to the hair cuticle. When the hair cuticle is chipped and torn, it is more likely to snag with its neighboring hairs and create tangles and mats. As we tug and break apart mats, we create broken hairs with split ends that magnify the problem. Roughly broken hairs deep withing a coat will wreak havoc.

Hair damage is almost impossible to see with the naked eye. Here is a picture of broken hair, highly magnified. Yuk! It's easy to understand how hairs in this state would snag and tangle.
brokenhairjpg

The tapered and polished tips of the Chris Christensen pin brushes are unlikely to cause this kind of breakage. They will not chip and tear at the hair cuticle. My personal favorite is the 16mm T-brush. The 16 mm pins remain fairly stiff so the tines will actually penetrate coat, not just skim over the top. It acts somewhat like a combination of brushing and combing. The brush comes in two sizes, the original larger size (it was intended for larger breeds with plush coats), and the new mini size. Chris Christensen manufactured this smaller design on our recommendation. We found that the 16mm T-brush was a perfect tool for Bichon Frise coat maintainence, but was a little large for some users. So here it is!
Emailing: CC T Brush 008 (2)
The mini T-brush, on the left above, is 4.25" wide compared to 5.25" of the original. The length is also shorter by an inch, 6" compared to 7". This translates into about 3/4 of an ounce less weight, always appreciated by the older groomer. (smile, if you have arthritis in your hands). The smaller size is easier to manueuver around smaller dogs, such as Maltese, Bichon Frise, Yorkies, and small Poodles.

PIN BRUSHES VS. SLICKER BRUSHES
I know you are burning to ask which is better, pin brushes or slickers? Dog show people use more pin brushes, professional groomers love slickers. In terms of preventing coat damage, pin brushes with polished pins are less likely to chip and tear the hair cuticle. The tiny tines of slicker brushes are more likely to cause wear and tear to the hair cuticle. Damage from either type of tool can be minimized, however, by adequate conditioning of the hair before assault by tools. Well-made slickers are less aggressive than cheap alternatives. If the brush scratches your skin, it will be brutal to fine hair.

It is hard for groomers to give up slickers. We get the results we want quickly. Slickers remove loose hair easily, and stretch hair for a beautiful fluff dry finish. Good news, groomers: It's not necessary to toss your slickers, just use them judiciously, not automatically. Try to incorporate more hair friendly tools to the largest possible extent. Personally, I have found that the more I use my CC 16mm T-brushes, the more I love them. I especially appreciate the less matting and tangling in the Bichon coats. When I do use slickers, I use really good brushes, such as Chris Christensen, Les Pooch.

Here is a summary of my reasons for choosing Chris Christensen brushes:
  • Tapered and polished tines are least likely to damage hair cuticle.
  • T-Brush design is easy on user wrists.
  • German workmanship and design manufactures tools that last.
  • Quality materials are durable and nice to use. (Great wood!)
  • 16 mm brushes act as comb and brush, penetrating thick plush coats, including Bichon Frise, but also great on Bearded Collie.
  • Dogs like the less tugging and resistance of the brushes.
  • Dog friendly, user friendly, hair friendly - what more can you ask of a brush?
Chris Christensen 16mm T Brushes in both sizes may be purchased from yours truly. Click HERE to Shop With a Groomer. They can also be purchased at Cherrybrook.com

12 comments:

  1. Lurker speaking up for the first time here...

    Thanks for the great blog. I have learned so much from you!

    I've been using the Furminator on my 8 month old black Standard Schnauzer, "Ven", about once a week since he was a puppy. It does a great job of removing just the undercoat. His wirehair coat is tangle free (except on his legs where the hair is rather soft) even when it dries on it's own post romp-in-the-rain. After reading this post I'm now wondering if the Furminaot might be causing similar damage to what you have pictured here to the coat on his legs where I am strugling to keep things looking nice.

    His undercoat is brown and his topcoat is black. When I brush his body I get piles of cottony brown undercoat and am left with shiny hard topcoat. On his legs, however, his top and bottom coat are both soft and fine and I can't seem to target just the undercoat. I have tried hand stripping the legs (about 4 months ago) but the hair generally broke before it came out and I gave up. I have been using the Furminator to comb out the legs but it removes very few hairs in the process and I think I need to switch tactics. Would you recomend a small brush like this for his legs? Do you have any strategies that might help in maintaining his leg furnishings? I'd really like to target the undercoat because his legs are currently an unatractive brown color as compared to the shiny black of his body. I'm not concerned with maintaining the length of his furnishings (in fact I would prefer to keep them on the short side for maintenance's sake) but I would like to keep the hairs healthy (and less prone to tangeling) and as black as possible.

    FYI: Ven was professionally stripped at the begining of the summer but they didn't strip his furnishings at all--just shaped them slightly using scissors. I tried to hand strip his legs myself but as I said above, gave up because the hairs were just breaking. He'll be stripped again in the late fall.

    OMG that was longer than originally intended. Thanks for whatever help you can offer. I can take pics if that would help.

    I really appreciate this blog for both informative and entertainment value. Although I've never spoken up before I'm a fan and a regular. :)

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  2. Sorry to be almost a month getting to this response. There are not enough hours in the day...

    I don't think the furminator tool harms the coat. I used one just yesterday on a Border Terrier I was handstripping, and I didn't see any signs of "frizzled" hair.

    It sounds like you are on the right track. What I use to card out undercoat from terrier furnishings is an old Mat Breaker tool. It is probably 10 years old. By being old and not sharp, it does not cut hair, but mucks out the undercoat. A very fine comb might accomplish something, as well.

    Some Schnauzer furnishings are naturally more "beige". It's hard to know what is right for your dog. And remember, I'm not a breeder. But you can get a little insight into the hair you are stripping out by looking at a few hairs under a magnifying lens.

    I'm the only groomer I know who keeps a magnifier in my tool box. I use it check hair that I am stripping to make sure there are hair follicles attached, which tells me that I am not cutting the hair. Looking at a pinch of hair also tells me if I am pulling most undercoat or topcoat.

    I also use my magnifier to identify parasites, or determine that something is vegetable matter, not a bug, and to examine the cutting edges of my scissor blades for pitting and damage.

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  3. I bought a CC T pin brush a while back. I have yet to find a use for it. I so want to fall in love with this brush, but we haven't clicked yet. I'm the groomer who does the dogs the other groomers in the shop don't want. That means matted, agressive...etc. If you are mainly doing very matted to pelted dogs is the CC brush just the wrong tool? A good chunk of my dogs are shaves because of my unique position, but when I can I like to save ears, tails and faces. I'm wondering if this is the reason this brush and I have yet to click. Is it the wrong brush for dematting ears and the like. Thanks!

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  4. Although the CC 16mm T brush has a fairly stiff action and acts somewhat like a comb as well as a brush, it is not the tool for dematting serious mats. For that job, I highly recommend the Mat Breaker, and/or the Les Pooch "Emergency" brush.

    The CC T Brush will unravel minor tangles of dogs that groomed regularly. But it's best feature is that it is less likely to cause hair damage with regular use than a slicker or a cheaply made pin brush. This means that it is a preventative measure, not so much a dematting tool.

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  5. Thank you for the response! I have signed up for a hand stripping course in November so hopefully I can get some helpful hands on advice about stripping the legs. In the mean time I'll keep at it with the furminator.

    I did some more reading about black schnauzers online and apparently many of the dogs being shown are dyed black because brown furnishings are so common. I guess I may have to learn to live with it. However, now that it's winter (mud season over here) he's usually so dirty that you can't tell what color he is. :)

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  6. I don't know if this pet brush works, do you recommend it? Plz check
    http://www.asontv.com/household/petzoom-grooming-brush-pet-zoom.html

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  7. Hi Tina! That brush looks interesting, but I have learned to be rather skeptical of these "as seen on TV" grooming options. Usually they are disappointing to professionals. I would need to see it in action and feel the bristles.

    If someone wants to send me a brush, I would be happy to evaluate it.

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  8. I've been showing dogs for seven years now and Chris Christensen makes the best quality brushes there is!!! It does wonders for my dogs coat and is the top brush for people who show dogs, which requires tons of grooming.

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  9. Yes, yes! I "discovered" this brush by asking Chris Christensen, himself, what was his best-selling brush at the dog shows. The back story is that I received an inquiry about grooming service to see if I would help with a matted P.O.N. dog WITHOUT using a slicker. After my little ego went berzerk for a few minutes sending out thoughts such as "Is this customer really telling ME what tools to use?", I got off it and got on to thinking about what I WOULD use if I didn't use a slicker. That's when I contacted Chris, and talked to him about his most popular brushes.

    Once I started using the 16mm T brush, I found more and more applications for the tool. Subsequently, I asked Chris to come out with a smaller version, as I liked using the brush on small dogs as well as the larger breeds for which it was intended. Now we have the original size, and the "mini" smaller size, too. I love Chris Christensen.

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  10. Great blog! You mentioned Show Sheen. We use this on our horses, but I never thought about using it dogs. I get a number of semi-matted Lhasas, Yorkies and "doodle dogs" and have issues getting through those matts. Can you use SS (or similar, like Cowboy Magic) on all types of canine coats?

    Thanks!

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  11. I find that Show Sheen works pretty much the same as detangler products marketed for pets. There are several that I use interchangeably: Chris Christensen Ice on Ice, E-Z Groom EZ Glide, and Show Sheen are my favorites. I use them diluted in water as a final rinse, sometimes instead of a conditioner, or added to a conditioner.

    I think silicone based products work on pretty much all coats, it is just a matter of how much and what form. Rinsing these products through the coats is a feature of my grooming, one of my keys to success.

    I use gel forms such as Cowboy Magic or Eqyss Survivor more sparingly, as needed for dealing with major mats. There is an equine detangler gel made by a company called XTreme that I love. In general, I have no qualms at using many horse products on pets, as many equine products list ingredients and seem as good or better than pet products. In many respects, the equine marketplace is more upscale than the pet marketplace. I would just as soon use an equine product with a list of ingredients than a dog product with ingredients withheld.

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  12. Hi, I stumbled here on my everlasting search for the perfect shampoo and conditioner - I have English Setters that I show and keeping them properly groomed can be quite the task. I love my CC pin brushes and second your endorsement - they really are the best. My absolute favorite brush (one CC vendor at a show called it the stupid brush because it defies logic) is the CC wood pin brush. I only use my pin brushes for blow outs, the wood pin brush is my go-to tool for day to day and post bath brushing. I will only use the slicker on large matts I am trying to work out and to clean the loose hair out of the feathers after I have finished stripping/carding. It is an amazing brush for drop coated breeds - just glides through.

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