Monday, November 03, 2008

Terrier Transformation in Tucson

At Transformation Pet Center in Tucson, AZ, we love doing pet makeover grooming that lives up to our name. Here is the story of Belle, a Wire Haired Terrier.

Belle's family had recently moved to Tucson, and she had not been groomed since before the move. She was overgrown, dirty, and whew, did she ever smell bad! Did I say matted? That, too.

WireFoxTerrier Before

Here's a side shot that really shows the extent of the matting on the legs.
Wire Fox Before - Side Shot

The owner admitted to a little home grooming on the head. Love these ears!

Wire Fox Terrier Head Before

I was nearly salivating with the anticipation of "fixing" this dog's hair style and cleaning her up. Okay, I need a life, I admit it. Meanwhile, some lucky pet owners get to benefit from my pouring all my talent into grooming their "babies." These people found me by searching the Internet. I loved that part.

The first thing I did was to rake out the fuzzy body coat with a deshedding blade. Technically, this is called "carding the jacket". The purpose is to promote new growth of hard hair with good color. Carding is a technique used in hand stripping of terriers that I have incorporated into my pet grooming. It helps to maintain a healthier coat.

A key to carding is to gently stretch the skin as you are raking with the grain of coat growth. It looks like this:
Carding the coat

This is how much hair I removed in this step:
Carding Results

Next came the bath. Make that two baths. The first bath of EZ Structure shampoo did not get rid of all of the odor. i determined that the coat was rather oily and was holding on to the odor. This dog smelled so bad I questioned my own cleanliness. For a second bath, I chose EZ Groom dEZolve, a degreaser that did the trick. Then I Used Show Season Results Rinse as a finishing rinse. Here she is after bath, dry and brushing out.

WFT After the Bath & Combout

You can see traces of the previous grooming. The groomer placed the pattern too high on the shoulder and left something of a "skirt". We don't really want that.

Here is Belle with a new pattern, using a #5 blade:
After the clipper work on the body

After scissoring, she looked like this:
WFT After
WFT After Grooming #2

A happy Belle says, "My owners are delighted to have me looking like a Wire Fox Terrier again, thanks to Transformation Pet Center. I'm glad we moved to Tucson, so we could find Barbara and Dave."
Happy to be groomed!

Thanks for the endorsement, Belle, they can call us at 520-795-5743! You can also click HERE to go directly to the Transformation website and learn more about our grooming service.

ADDENDUM: Critique of previous grooming. It turns out that Belle's former groomer is a friend on one of our groomers' email groups. She would like a little more information about the previous grooming and what needed correcting. It is extremely difficult to critique a grooming that has grown out about eight weeks. From what I could tell, it was not a bad grooming. It looked to me as though the groomer had based her clipper work on one of our grooming books that has lines drawn to show the clipper line. I say that because weeks later I see what appears to be a line across the lower part of the body and shoulder. To my eye, this line is a bit too far up. If you look at the Wire Fox in the show ring, or any of the long legged terriers, there is no fringe underneath the dog, and certainly none on the sides. The lines in the grooming books, however, often appear to suggest that the clipping stops at a line along the side of the dog from the shoulder to the flank. Groomers often refer to the hair underneath that line as t!he "skirt". NEWSFLASH: There is NO SKIRT on the long legged terriers. There is just a little bit of length left underneath the body to accentuate the slope that naturally exists from the flank to the lower chest, but this does not extend up the sides. The clipper work on the shoulder extends just about to the elbow so as to show the shoulder muscle. I think of the terrier as wearing a T-shirt, they are "tough guys", working class dudes, with muscles showing.

It was even more difficult to critique the former grooming of the head, as the owner had done some "emergency" home grooming. But from what I could see, it looked as though the groomer had not taken the hair at the outside corner of the eyes flush to the head. My guess was that it had been left a little long there. Again, this applies to all terrier heads. The WFT head is particularly sharp and narrow, and when we leave it too full on the top at the eyes, the entire head becomes a bit bushy, instead of being a tight "brick" shape. (looking at it straight on).

Because of the interest in this article (and the actual expression of a groomer's desire to learn), I will get some additional pictures of detailing of the Wire Fox Terrier groom in the near future.

12 comments:

  1. What is that de-shedding blade you are using? I want one!

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  2. This cool de-shedding tool is available. It has a rotating head that can be changed from a rake to a shedding blade. It's available from the Birdie Shopping cart for $25.00. I've had troubles getting a decent picture of this double sided tool.

    I'll go now and make sure there is an item at www.shop.bbird.biz. I'll also put a link in the article. Thanks for your interest.

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  3. I look in from time to time to learn somethings. However, Belle after the bath with the "wrong" pattern or your your "correct" pattern picture is missing. I see the EXACT same pics. I sat there like I was trying to find the 8 differences in the picture lol. SO I was wondering which picture is missing so I can have my lesson. Thanks BBird

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  4. Thanks for pointing this out. My bad... I have fixed it and added more comments about the grooming.

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  5. The ears on the WFT are perfect. Did you use your speed feed on the ears and at what size? I have trouble with WFT and Schnauzer ears as I am so afraid of nicking the fold..any suggestions?

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  6. Fear is good if it makes you be careful. I have been grooming for nearly 38 years; I have knicked a few ears. Not many, fortunately.

    I use the Speed Feed on the #10 or #15 setting on the outside of the ear, and the #30 setting inside the ear. It is important to stay aware of the fact that, even on the closest settings, the Speed Feed blade can knick skin. The feeder blade (notched blade) has space between the "teeth" that can catch skin. The safest blade for edging ears is a regular #40 blade. There is hardly any space between the teeth.

    Staying conscious of this point, I am careful in clipping the ears that I flatten the ear leather in my hand and clip from the side off the edge. I do this front and back, and then trim the edge with a small scissor, using my fingers as a guide.

    I will put this procedure on my list of to-do video clips. Thanks for your question.

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  7. Thank you so much for that info. I've never used a 40 inside the ears and always place my hand, on any dog's ear, over that fold so my ears never look tidy as there is always a bit of hair left there. I'd rather be safe than sorry and I explain that to my customers. They are okay with that but I appreciate your input and would love to see a video clip of you doing the ears. It would be so helpful even to me who has been grooming well over 10 years..some things just still make me feel uncomfortable.

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  8. BB~ Great blog: I found it in an internet search for "Peticure", but kept reading the other posts.
    I know nothing about grooming but I have a question for you: How do you sharpen your scissor style nail clippers? I have a Miller's Forge with the orange handle that is beginning to dull and twist/crush my boy's nails. Of course, his nails are huge, tough, and wide, so I was thinking a Peticure guard for a Dremel might work better. We're both extremely frustrated with nail clipping.
    Could you drop me a line over at my blog regarding sharpening my clippers if you have time? Your advice to other posters has been informative and right on.
    Thanks,
    ~Paula and Savage

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  9. What a great groom, such a difference! I've read your entire blog, it's fantastic! You do awesome work!

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  10. Slightly off topic...What brand of stripping knives do you recommend? I can't find anything decent in the pet shops so I will be ordering over the internet. My dog is a Standard Schnauzer with so-so coat quality.

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  11. Stripping knives - Much like scissors, different knives work better in diffferent hands. I have used a pair of McClellan knives for years. The underside of the handled is curved inward, making a comfortable place for your thumb. I also use a big flat "Classic" coarse knife. When I am doing a lot of stripping, I like to change my grip by changing knives. It reduces repetitive stress syndrome.
    (or seems to)

    An important thing with stripping knives is that you want to dull them before using. You don't want to cut hairs. I usually do this by raking the knife through a pumice stone.

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