WHEN IS AN OIL NOT AN OIL? WHEN IT'S JOJOBA OIL!

 WHEN IS AN OIL NOT AN OIL?  WHEN IT’S JOJOBA OIL! 

What’s in a name?  Misinformation! While we think of the botanists who search out and name new plants as accurate scientists, mistakes occur. There is a lot of misinformation that surrounds Jojoba Oil.  Technically, jojoba oil is not an oil at all, but is a liquid wax.  Seed oils, such as olive, sunflower, almond, argan oil, etc. are composed of triglycerides.  Jojoba is 97% liquid wax esters, with no triglycerides.  Other components of Jojoba are tocopherols, aka Vitamin E, which accounts for it’s high resistance to oxidation and rancidity.

Another tidbit of misinformation occurred with the botanical name for jojoba.  It was originally classified as “buxus chinensis” by a botanist who mixed up plant samples from California with those from China.  “chinensis” means “from china”.  Later botanists renamed the plant family of the Jojoba as “Simmondsia”, but apparently the species name “chinensis” cannot be changed once it is tagged.  The modern name is then Simmondsia chinensis even though it is not found in China.

The JOJOBA NARRATIVE OR STORY:

Spanish explorers, of the desert Southwest, aka the first invaders, discovered the native Indians softening and crushing the seeds of a local bush into a paste that they used to treat wounds and sores.  This original Jojoba oil may also have been used by the indigenous people for skin and hair care.  Although it was not a food source, it was sometimes eaten in emergencies and was discovered to stave off hunger.

In 1934, University of Arizona chemists (my alma mater), discovered that Jojoba was the only natural source of liquid wax esters other than sperm whale oil.  What’s the deal with wax esters?  Wax esters are desirable in skin and hair care because they most closely resemble the natural protective sebum of human hair and skin.    The original source of wax esters was sperm whale oil, called spermaceti. Spermaceti, a wax, liquid at body temperature, obtained from the head of a sperm whale or bottlenose whale. Spermaceti was used chiefly in ointments, cosmetic creams, fine wax candles, pomades, and textile finishing; later it was used for industrial lubricants. The substance was named in the mistaken belief that it was the coagulated semen of the whale. Let’s get this straight:  it is NOT whale sperm oil.  It is oil from whales named sperm whales, because the substance from their heads resembled sperm ejaculate, aka “Jizz” “cum” or “dick spit”.  

Jojoba oil was rediscovered in the 1970’s as the push began to end whale hunting.  As jojoba oil was further studied, it became clear that it was not only the single only substitute for spermaceti, but it excelled in certain beneficial properties.

DESIRABLE PROPERTIES

1. High similarity to sebum: What makes it so unique compared to other seed extracts is that jojoba oil is structurally and chemically very similar to the human sebum. This is because sebum is also largely comprised of wax mono esters, the primary constituent of jojoba oil. 

2. It has a high content of beneficial minerals and Vitamin E: Jojoba contains many different varieties of tocopherols which make up Vitamin E and many other natural minerals. Vitamin E is well known for promoting healthy and clear skin. It is also a very effective anti-oxidant and gives Jojoba oil an extended shelf life

3. It provides long-lasting moisture: Studies have documented that jojoba improves the feel of skin, and provides a substantial long-acting, 24-hour skin hydration effect. It is also an excellent moisturizer and protectant for hair.  

4. Anti-inflammatory: Jojoba wax has anti-inflammatory properties, helping to tame acne, ease the redness and pain of eczema, and keep skin calm and comfortable. 

5. It is a great scalp cleanser:  Many scalp related problems are caused by a hardened build-up of sebum that clogs the hair follicles and may cause some types of scaling. If this hardened build-up is not removed, it can eventually obstruct the hair follicle's ability to function properly, which can lead to a loss of the hair shaft, and ultimately, death of the follicle. Jojoba rapidly penetrates down to the scalp and hair shaft, and readily loosens and dissolves this hardened build-up. The scalp and hair follicles are left clean and free to continue their normal function.

6.Is it antibacterial?  Studies of the antibacterial properties of Jojoba oil have shown significant antibacterial activity but are not in total agreement as to just which microbes it is effective against.  Because of these contradictions, it would be judicious to hold off on marketing any specifics.  

Tech Sheet

Composition of Jojoba Oil

07-98 % wax esters  - tocopherols- 1% glyceride esters

whale oil - 82-85% wax esters - 12-15% glyceride esters

 Sources: Thejojobaoil.com 

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To my readers:  This is one of several old articles, drafts, GroomPod notes, etc. that I have found in my Dropbox files in 2021 and decided to publish.  It was originally created in March, 2016.  I think it is still pertinent for those trying to understand the functioning of cosmetic ingredients.  Better late than never, I say.  With these writings, I am not going to agonize over completing an article.  You get what you get.  Thanks for reading my stuff!