Saturday, January 19, 2019

iGROOM MAGIC DETANGLER PRODUCT REVIEW

Magic Detangler Conditioning Spray

"Magic Detangler is a leave-on protein sealer and treatment that represents a new breakthrough in conditioning, only from iGroom. The unique scientific formula balances your pet’s hair elasticity by providing essential nutrients, including hydrolyzed keratin and vegetable proteins to add excellent conditioning and moisture to the hair." (from the iGroom website) Let's take a look!
  • INGREDIENTS REVIEW
Deionized Water, Water in which the mischevious metal ions have been removed thus improving product performance.  
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Non-ionic, ethoxlyated polyethylene glycol ester made from hydrogenated castor oil. This is a multi-functional ingredient that acts as an emulsifier (mixes stuff), solubilizer (dissolves stuff) and surfactant (for spreadability). 
Phenoxyethanol - a preservative, fixative and fragrance ingredient. It is commonly used to preserve botanical extracts and individual ingredients.  
Keratin Amino Acid, Keratin Protein, from hoofs, horns, feathers and/or wool, hydrolyzed until it breaks into smaller components, i.e., the amino acids.  Keratin protein has an important amino acid, cystine, that is not found in vegetable-derived protein.  Cystine imparts strength to the hair.  

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil  - usually used as a fragrance additive.*
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract - a lightweight emollient to soften hair and skin. 
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract - soothing and calming to the skin.

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein - a well-established protein for enhancing moisture retention and strength of hair. 
Panthenol - a hydrating ingredient, AKA Pro-Vitamin B-5.  A pro-vitamin is a substance that is converted into a vitamin within the body through metabolism. It is not itself a vitamin.  
Tapioca Starch - thickener and a viscosity enhancer. Texturizer. (Adds body).
Ascorbic Acid- AKA Vitamin C.  An acidifier to adjust pH and close hair cuticle.  

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein - Low molecular weight protein that can penetrate to the inner cortex of the hair shaft, providing deep moisturization and flexibility to the hair.  
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein - a moisturizing active for skin and hair.  Effective at low humidities to maintain moisture balance.  
Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin - This is a form of keratin protein that has been chemically manipulated to be more substantive to hair.  The process is known as quaternization and it makes the substance very cationic.  It has serious cling power.  The main chemical supplier of this ingredient, Croda, describes it as "a permanent conditioner".  The downside of this long-lasting cling power is that it can build up.  
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol - A marriage of nature and science, this conditioning ingredient has been engineered to create a copolymer of pea protein and silicone.  This particular ingredient is heat activated to create an ultra light-weight strong coating on the outer surface of the hair to protect from damage from heat and styling implements.  
Comment:These four protein ingredients are mixed together to form the iGroom protein complex that is used in most of their shampoos and conditioners.  It is a sophisticated formulation that incorporates low weight molecular protein that can penetrate the hair cuticle and deliver moisture to the inner cortex of the hair and higher weight proteins that fill in damaged areas of the cuticle and provide external value.  

PPG/PEG-18/18 Dimethicone - a silicone that has been made water-soluble by chemically attaching dimethicone to glycol.  It imparts a soft, silky feel to the hair.  Important function here as a spreading agent and emulsifier.  
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil - Lubricant that adds slip.  Important for a Detangler.  This ingredient also acts as an anti-oxidant for the formula.
Behentrimonium Chloride - An anti-static agent. 
Polyquaternium-10 - A widely used cationic cellulose polymer.  It has been quaternized to make it very substantive to hair.  It will seek out damaged areas of the hair cuticle and help to balance porosity.  Probably the most widely used hair conditioning ingredient on the planet.  
Caprylyl Glycol - a humectant and conditioning agent, also modifies viscosity and is used to boost preservatives. 
Fragrance - a bright, crisp, citrus fragrance.  Very nice! 
Disodium EDTA, Glycerin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Propanediol.  Preservative system.
pH-5.5
CLAIMS ASSESSMENT
  • Eliminates tangles - TRUE! Excellent performance.
  • Contains vitamins for body and thickness Not Exactly. I can't find them.  Panthenol is a pro-vitamin that will plump up the hair shaft, but it's not a vitamin.  Ascorbic acid is a form of Vitamin C, but it serves to achieve the right pH.  The slightly acidic pH of this product (I get 5.5pH) helps to close the hair cuticle and aid detangling.  
  • Provides manageability - True
  • Adds body and moisture - True
  • Contains vegetable proteins - True, four of them, even.
  • Contains keratin amino acids - True, two of them, for a total of SIX protein ingredients.
  • Repairs damage - True, although this is a temporary fix.  More importantly is that this product will help to minimize the damage from detangling.  
  • Equalizes porosity - True.  Similar to damage "repair".  Hair tangling is almost always accompanied by raised cuticles as well as chips and gouges and roughness to the outer cuticle. This creates a condition of porosity which can lead to tangling and moisture loss. The proteins in this product help to temporarily fill in the cracks and crevices, thus allowing
  • the hair shafts to better slip apart.   

  • USAGE EXPERIENCE
  • We have been using the iGroom Magic Detangler in the salon for several weeks.  It has continued to impress me with great performance.  It is one of the best detangling aids I have used.   A measure of its popularity is that it keeps disappearing from my table and showing up on the brushout table.  Where it works best is for spot detangling. In technical hair care terms it has great "wet comb" ability.  Most silicone detangling products that have good wet combing ability utilize cyclomethicone.**  Other silicones need to be dried onto the hair for best performance.
     We spritz the Magic Detangler right onto a knotted spot and break the matted hair apart with a comb.  Voila!  It makes the undoable doable.  I have been able to detangle even when it seemed quite unlikely to succeed.  Another appealing attribute of this product is that it is NOT in an aerosol can.  This means no chemical propellants. The unique finger spray is easy on the hands and easy to use. The fragrance of this product is so good to my nose that it makes me want to use it.  Kudos to the formulator of iGroom Magic Detangler - Great Job!*Orange Oil is 90% d'Limonene, a substance of which some groomers are wary.  For those groomers, allow me to assure you that I am confident that there is not sufficient d'Limonene in this product to be of concern.  This is a "no worries" product.  ** Cyclomethicones are controversial.  Look for a blog update on all silicones. Coming soon!
Other Reading and Listening:  We discussed this product and the iGroom Charcoal+Keratin Shampoo on Episode #188 of The GroomPod.  Check it out!  It's towards the end of the episode. This detangler was also discussed on Episode #196 of The GroomPod. 

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