iGroom Charcoal + Keratin Shampoo, "is formulated for ultimate pet cleansing without irritation — leaving skin stronger and healthier. Specifically, The special scientifically-developed formula has the perfect pH for dog and cat skin, including bamboo charcoal to absorb minerals, toxins, impurities, and other harmful substances. The unique keratin complex contains various hydrolyzed keratin and vegetable proteins to add excellent conditioning and moisture to your pet’s coat." (from the website)
This shampoo was chosen for a trial due to its high popularity among groomers. It was nominated for a Barkleigh Honors Award "Best Product" for 2018, sparking our curiosity. Also, the use of activated charcoal is a recent trend in human beauty products.
INGREDIENT IDENTIFICATION- A look at the ingredient panel.
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate - Exceptionally mild detergent surfactant (cleansing agent). It is anionic surfactant derived from lauryl alcohol that has been ethoxylated (treated with ethylene oxide) and hooked up to sulfosuccinic acid. The chemical name is disodium salt of lauryl alcohol polyethylene glycol ether sulfosuccinate.
DI Water - Water in which metal ions have been removed. Usually found first on a list. Does this mean there is actually more surfactant than water? It is possible, given that the single cleansing agent is very mild and requires a greater concentration to achieve the desired cleansing results.
Acrylates Copolymer - thickener, suspending agent. Helps to keep the charcoal evenly mixed in the product.
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer - A particular version of acrylate copolymer that is used to thicken very mild sulfate-free formulations.
Glycol Distearate - an opacifier, makes a solution pearly. Without it, this product would look like mud.
Laureth-4 - a synthetic polymer of ethoxylated Lauryl alcohol (from Palm Oil) used as a co-surfactant, cleaning agent, emulsifier and thickener. Used in Lush cosmetics to help soapy products rinse off easily. A PEG ether of lauryl alcohol. AKA, PEG-4 Lauryl ether. Very important in this product as an emulsifier.
Polyquaternium-10, a conditioning agent synthesized from cellulose. This highly popular ingredient is ubiquitous in the shampoo industry - it’s everywhere because it works.
Althaea Officinalis (Marshmallow) Extract, Arnica Montana (Arnica) Flower Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) fruit extract, Sambucus Nigra (Elder) flower extract, Hedera Helix (Ivy) extract, Parietaria (Pellitory) extract, - plant extracts, see below.
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, - soy protein helps to increase the moisture-binding of hair, thus helping to strengthen hair. (Vegetable protein #1)
Panthenol, a pro-vitamin of B5, panthenol is a humectant that attracts moisture and has the ability to penetrate the hair cuticle and deposit into the hair cortex. This makes for fatter hair shafts and an appearance of greater volume.
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein -Substance obtained by acidic, alkaline, or enzymatic hydrolysis of mixed vegetables composed primarily of amino acids, peptides, and proteins. Each vegetable source provides a unique amino acid profile. Mixed veggies cover a broad spectrum. (Vegetable protein #2)
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein - Derived from Pisum sativum or 'pea', a superfood rich in amino acids, pea protein is a 100% natural, moisture retentive biopolymer that exhibits powerful moisturization properties on the skin and hair. (Vegetable protein #3)
Keratin Amino Acid, Keratin protein that has been broken down into amino acids, smaller molecular units, for greater potential absorption into the hair shaft. (Keratin #1, Protein #4)
Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin This hydrolyzed keratin has been further modified to be cationic to better bond to hair so it’s not rinsed away. Keratin #2, Protein #5)
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol - a very innovative protein/silicone polymer ingredient that is heat-activated and serves to protect the hair from styling (or grooming) damage. (Veg. Protein #4, Overall Protein #6, Silicone #1)
Charcoal powder, a naturally derived deodorant and purifier. It adsorbs impurities and odor source.
Iron Oxides (CI 77499) Colorant
Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Tetrasodium EDTA preservative system.
CLAIMS ASSESSMENT - How well do the ingredients support the manufacturer's claims for the product?
- NO Sulfates - True
- NO Parabens - True
- NO Phthalates - True
- NO Animal Ingredients - False, Keratin is sourced from hoofs, horns, feathers, wool from, hello!, animals.
- Naturally Inspired - Okay, They do not try to claim that this is a natural product.
- Environmentally Sustainable - Arguable. Sustainability is multi-faceted; it has to do with environmental impact as well as the renewability of resources. We could debate the sustainability of ethoxylated surfactants, which are created by reacting with ethylene oxide, a petroleum-derived product. We could also discuss whether the lauryl alcohol used in the cleansers is from sustainable Palm Oil.
- Contains Vitamins for body and thickness - not exactly, contains only Panthenol, a Pro-vitamin of B5. Pro-vitamins are not the same as actual vitamins.
- Intense cleaning power - I found the cleaning power more modest than intense.
- Adds moisture - True
- Contains vegetable proteins -True (4)
- Contains keratin amino acids - True (2)
- Repairs damage - temporarily
- Enhances Volume - The panthenol and protein plump up the hair shafts, giving the appearance of greater volume.
- Recommended pH level (6.0 - 6.5) True
- Detoxifies with charcoal - Contains a visible amount of charcoal powder.
BOTANICAL EXTRACTS
MARSHMALLOW - moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, healing/soothing, astringent,
ARNICA - cleansing, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, nourishing, boosts circulation, antimicrobial, hair growth
CUCUMBER - moisturizing, healing. soothing, Nourishing, astringent, anti-oxidant, firming,
ELDER - anti-inflammatory, healing, soothing, boosts circulation, astringent, skin lightening, firming,
IVY - cleansing, anti-inflammatory, astringent, anti-oxidant, firming,
PELLITORY - Astringent
Together this mixture adds skin toning function to the product. It also adds great marketing value for the naturalness.
USAGE EXPERIENCE: We used this shampoo on various dogs and coat types over the trial period. I also brought it home and I used it on myself. It looks, feels and smells like a luxury human shampoo. The thickness was a little annoying - I had to remove the cap to get a portion of shampoo into my hand and sometimes used more than I wanted. The fragrance is excellent, again similar to what one would expect from a human product. The cleaning power was satisfactory when using the shampoo full strength from the bottle, but suffered some when used through the recirculating bathing system. We did not have an opportunity to test the purifying or detoxing property from the charcoal. The charcoal, as well as the protein complex, would be most likely to perform optimally if left on for a few minutes before rinsing. The label does not mention this under the directions.
DISCUSSION: This is one of the most complex pet shampoos I have encountered. Everything about it is more of what you would expect of a top-end human product. It is encouraging to find a company that dares to market both a commitment to science and a nod to nature. Too often we are led to believe that these two elements are mutually exclusive, that you either have an ALL natural product or scientifically evolved one. iGroom recognizes the value of both science and nature. This is bold and deserves applause. However, in the attempt to be all things to all people, the company has gone a bit overboard in their use of marketing slogans and "free-from" statements. Most notably disingenuous are the "no animal ingredients" and "no silicones" statements.
Here is a link to The GroomPod Episode #188, in which we discuss this product. Our conversation is at the end of the podcast.
And here is the write-up of the iGroom Magic Detangler.
USAGE EXPERIENCE: We used this shampoo on various dogs and coat types over the trial period. I also brought it home and I used it on myself. It looks, feels and smells like a luxury human shampoo. The thickness was a little annoying - I had to remove the cap to get a portion of shampoo into my hand and sometimes used more than I wanted. The fragrance is excellent, again similar to what one would expect from a human product. The cleaning power was satisfactory when using the shampoo full strength from the bottle, but suffered some when used through the recirculating bathing system. We did not have an opportunity to test the purifying or detoxing property from the charcoal. The charcoal, as well as the protein complex, would be most likely to perform optimally if left on for a few minutes before rinsing. The label does not mention this under the directions.
DISCUSSION: This is one of the most complex pet shampoos I have encountered. Everything about it is more of what you would expect of a top-end human product. It is encouraging to find a company that dares to market both a commitment to science and a nod to nature. Too often we are led to believe that these two elements are mutually exclusive, that you either have an ALL natural product or scientifically evolved one. iGroom recognizes the value of both science and nature. This is bold and deserves applause. However, in the attempt to be all things to all people, the company has gone a bit overboard in their use of marketing slogans and "free-from" statements. Most notably disingenuous are the "no animal ingredients" and "no silicones" statements.
Here is a link to The GroomPod Episode #188, in which we discuss this product. Our conversation is at the end of the podcast.
And here is the write-up of the iGroom Magic Detangler.
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