Monday, October 31, 2005

MAINTAINING THE PET BICHON COAT

A bichon owner writes about her pet:
I love it when she has a full fluffy coat. My groomer does not. My groomer tells me that if a comb doesn't go though her hair from the skin out in one stroke that is matting. What is your take on that comment? How do I keep her coat under control? Is it better to comb or brush her out daily? Is there some kind of conditioner that I can use between grooming to keep the matting under control? How long should her coat be during the winter months (we live in New Jersey).

BBird responds:
I come from the perspective of that of a bichon owner and that of a veteran groomer of 34 years. I would like to address both sides of what appears to be something of a conflict between the groomer and this bichon owner. Those of us who make a living grooming recognize this tension point.... the owner wants a grooming that appears unrealistic to the groomer. Just what is "realistic"? I think that is what this owner wants to know. My experience is that maintaining a fuller Bichon Frise coat requires a expressed partnership between the pet owner and the groomer based on an agreement about what is realistic.

Firstly, the groomer is right. If the comb can't go through the coat from the skin to the ends of the hair, the coat is matted. It is not fair to expect a groomer to spend a great deal of extra time de-matting a thatched coat. And the Bichon Frise undercoat will pelt into a thatch if not combed and maintained properly. I also recognize, however, that there is a range of willingness among groomers for combing Bichon coats. Let's face it: Some groomers just don't want to deal with a full coat, even if it is maintained. The fuller coat takes considerably longer to groom than a short coat, even when combed. Other groomers, such as myself, charge more for Bichon work and welcome full coats and love to scissor. So let's be real and understand that the willingness to spend time in blow drying, combing, and scissoring a Bichon coat varies from groomer to groomer. Really, groomer willingness is our first and foremost factor.

The quality of home maintenance and the grooming interval work together as our second important factor. Notice the word "quality" as applied to home maintenance. It does not matter a hoot that you brush daily, if you miss the same spots every day ("He doesn't let me comb him there.") or only brush the ends of the coat, it's not as good as a thorough combing once a week. While brushing fluffs the coat and lifts out debris, combing separates the hairs from each other, and removes loose under fuzz. You've got to comb, sorry.

Products are another factor, what shampoo and conditioner is used can make a big difference to the success of the maintenance time at home. I am of the firm opinion that the Bichon coat needs some conditioning. While over conditioning can cause the coat to become too soft and to be really hard to shape and scissor, failing to condition can set the coat up to tangle quickly. Also, the choices of grooming products can make the fluff drying and combing of the coat easier or not. Bichon Frise coat responds very well to the use of products that contain silicones, such as Best Shot, or Chris Christensen Ice on Ice or After Bath Rinse. If you are somehow reluctant to use silicone based products, the Eqyss Premier shampoo and Cloud Nine conditioner work well with these coats. In between groomings, a leave-in conditioner can be misted on the coat, or a coat spray used while combing out. Again, I like the Chris Christensen Ice on Ice, or the Eqyss Pet Rehydrant spray for this maintenance support. For working out bad tangles behind the ears, at the base of the tail, inside the legs, and other trouble spots, nothing works better than a dab of silicone gel product such as Eqyss Survivor or Cowboy Magic Detangler and Shine. These products were developed originally for detangling horse manes and tails and have what it takes to create maximum "slip."

On a related note, I'd like to point out to groomers that if you use the right products, a moderate amount of tangling of Bichon coat can be brushed and combed after the bath. In fact, it is easier after the bath when the coat is conditioned. I only tackle seriously large knots the size of my thumb or greater before the bath. You would be surprised at what you can brush out using silicone products, without a lot of extra time. The old adage of always combing out BEFORE the bath need not apply. That's the old way, based on yesterday's products.

Another factor that can make or break the equation is the nature of the individual coat. You can have a willing groomer, a dedicated owner, great products, and a coat from Hell. I can say "Hell" because this is my Blog! It's true. Some Bichon coats are just impossible to maintain. Some are too cottony, others are too wirey. Either extreme can be an excessive challenge. There can be a huge difference in coat texture from one Bichon to another. Groomers love to scoff when owners claim that the coat matted practically "overnight." Well, guess what? I've got a Bichon like that!

There is one final factor that can influence what is a realistic expectation of coat length and grooming. This is the dog's tolerance of grooming.
Some dogs seem to come out of the womb hating grooming. I swear it seems genetic some times! I know that groomers like to put the responsibility squarely on the owner for not training the dog to accept grooming. Yes, training is important. A dog that has a basic tolerance for picking at its coat can be trained to be reasonably cooperative for grooming. There are cases, however, where all the owner's efforts to start the dog on the table as a puppy and be firm and consistent were ineffective because the dog had a resistant attitude to the whole thing. If you add a difficult coat to difficult behavior you have a recipe for a short groom.

So what is the right length for a pet cut on a Bichon Frise in New England in the Winter? It is a sum of several factors: groomer willingness to deal with full coated grooming, owner effectiveness at home maintenance, grooming interval, products and techniques, coat quality, and dog's tolerance. With all of those factors working in concert, you can maintain as much coat as you want. If any one these factors drops out, it can be a "deal breaker."

Maintaining a fluffy Bichon requires a partnership between groomer and pet owner and the dog. It requires a willingness to work with longer coat and develop skills at combing and home maintenance, and working with the dog to increase the tolerance for the procedures. No groomer is going to want to put the dog through something that seems like torture for the sake of a "look." If the dog hates it, the coat is terrible, or there isn't time to do the homework involved, then a shorter cut is appropriate. For me, "short" is a #4F blade or a #3 3/4 blade (3/8" or 1/2"). But for some groomers, that is "full".

The public needs to recognize that there are pet stylists and there are pet barbers. The pet stylist is the groomer who likes to do scissor work, who works from a foundation that is the breed standard, and charges according to the time and effort involved. The pet barber is a groomer who is doing primarily efficiency trims and is working on a time/money formula that does not allow the kind of time it takes to deal with full coats and much scissor work. Although the industry does not recognize this distinction, it exists and there is a place and rationale for both. This leads us to a final factor in our equation: the price of the groom. Expect to pay more for a grooming that takes more time. The price factor might influence what is realistic.

I hope this has helped both sides. Pet owners need to understand that what is realistic depends on the groomer willingness, your ability to be effective at home maintenance, and your dog's coat and behavior. Groomers need to understand that products and techniques can make a big difference. We need to be willing to try new products and evolve with the times. Also it is appropriate to charge more for full coats according to the time it takes.

Before I leave you tonight, I want to apologize to the fans of the GroomBlog for not publishing anything lately. I have not deserted you, but I've been prioritizing. It's extremely important that I finish writing the second edition of my book on shampoos, "Beyond Suds & Scent - Understanding Pet Shampoos and Conditioners", so that I can teach another online course soon. I hope you understand.
TTYS, BBird

7 comments:

  1. My 9month old Bichon was left at the Gromers today and she completely shaved him because he was so matted. Ho long will it take to grown back please?

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  2. In about two months your puppy will be fluffy again. The face/head/tail take longer. I hope they did not have to shave the tail, that can take months and months to regrow.

    Unfortunately, you waited a little too long to seek the services of a groomer. In order to avoid a repeat of this, you need to start taking your Bichon to the groomer every 4-6 weeks.

    The good side of this is that many Bichons have matting problems in between 9-14 months of age, while the puppy coat is replaced with adult coat. They often have to be clipped close during this period. Now you will have fresh adult coat on your dog that should be a little easier to maintain.

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  3. I have a 10 month old Bichon/toy poodle mix, now that the weather is warming up, about 80 or so would it be good to shave her? She does have a pretty thick under coat but because of the mixture she is her coat is much more manageable, I am just concerned that she will be too warm in the summer months. Do you suggest just getting her cut to a shorter length as an alternative because I love her long fluffy fur she is so beautiful this way, also some of the pups from the same litter were shaved back in February and they still have not grown out completely so I am concerned that it will take too long to grow back! Please help I just want my dearest Bella to enjoy the summer!

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    1. I am truly sorry that this post slipped past me EIGHT YEARS AGO. I live in Tucson, AZ and keep my Bichons in full coat year 'round. The important thing is to keep the coat combed and breathable during the warm months. My personal opinion is that a Bichon never NEEDS to be shaved or clipped close. The closest I am comfortable with is a #4 blade, which leaves 3/8". The white Bichon coat actually reflects heat rather than absorbs it. When we remove the coat, we remove the insulation, the heat source can go directly to the skin. That's my position, and I'm sticking with it! I apologize for the lengthy delay in responding to this question. I did not see it until 11/09/16. Pay attention, Bird!

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  4. Thank you for your posting! I have had Bichons for over 30 years, and this is the first time I've had one with such a curly coat. Thanks for coming right out and saying that they need to be combed and not just brushed over the top. I was going to go out and buy a new brush today. Now, I just need a spray on conditioner. I have a fantastic groomer and a wonderfully gentle boy, who loves to sit and get brushed. I think your advice will help a great deal!

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    1. Thanks for your comment. Proper Bichon coat maintenance requires a combination of brushing and combing. Brush thoroughly, then comb. A good "Greyhound" style comb, with a medium to fine is sufficient, although I often like the Chris Christensen extra coarse to fine comb. I am pleased to see that this poster is seeking a good conditioning spray to use while brushing and combing. Lightly misting with a spray helps to reduce static cling and protect the coat from damage. I am also pleased to see that you are buying a new brush. The pins on brushes (tines) get worn from use and can chip and tear the hair cuticle. I salute home grooming!!

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  5. How do I know silicone produce? Will out actually say the word silicone in ingredients?

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