Tuesday, December 18, 2018

Les Poochs Hypo Shampoo & Creme Rinse Ingredients Decoded


Continuing our series on the ingredients for Les Poochs products as shared by company founder, Michel Ravioli to the Facebook Group, Shampoos and the Grooming Industry, here are the final two.




LP Hypo Shampoo Decoded: 
-DI U.V Water - water that has had minerals and metal ions removed through UV Light treatment.  
-Stepanol AM-K - Cannot find AM-K (discontinued??), Stepanol AM series is Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate.  (detergent cleansing agent)
-Comperlan KD - Cocamide DEA (thickening agent and helps to stabilize foam)
-Methylparaben, Propylparaben (preservatives)
-Germall 115 - Imidazolidinyl Urea a preservative that releases trace amounts of formaldehyde. Used in combination with parabens. 
-Citric Acid to adjust pH
-Sodium Chloride  - Salt, used to thicken sulfate based solutions.  
-Dissolvine NA2S - Disodium EDTA from DeWolf Chemicals, sequestering or chelating agent that binds with trace elements and helps to form a more stable product.  Also boosts preservative function.  

Proper List format would read:

Water, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamide DEA, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Disodium EDTA



LE & LA CREME RINSE Decoded:

-DI UV Water

-Liponate IPM - Isopropyl Myristate (emollient for soft skin feel. Described by the supplier (Lipon Chemicals) as “slightly oily somewhat substantive emollient.”
-Cetyl Alcohol - multi-functional fatty alcohol used as a conditioner base. It serves as an emulsifier, thickener, hair softener, and a basic conditioner. Softens skin and hair. 
- Drakeol 7 - Mineral oil.   Occlusive agent. Protects skin from moisture loss.  Very popular ingredient for formulations prior to 2000.  Not used much in contemporary products because it is petroleum-derived.
-Kathon CG - Methylchloroisothiazolinone & Methylisothiazolinone, preservative complex
-Varisoft BT-85 - INCI: Behentrimonium Chloride - a cationic conditioning agent 
-Dissolvine NA2S - Disodium EDTA, sequestering agent which works with preservatives to prevent spoilage.
-Methylparaben - Preservative
-Propylparaben - Preservative
-Panthequat - Quaternized version of Panthenol (Quaternizing makes a substance cationic, more substantive to hair and skin. INCI: Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride.  
-Solusilk - Silk Amino Acids - Helps maintain the moisture balance of hair/skin.  NOTE: This particular Product is no longer available
-Actiplex 1023 - not found. Not listed in CTFA International Buyers Guide.  Possibly a plant extract, probably no longer available. 
-Brookosome E -Water (and) Phospholipids (and) Tocopherol Acetate - Anti-oxidant
-Fragrance

Using the proper format this list would become:
Water, Isopropyl Myristate, Cetyl Alcohol, Mineral Oil, Behentrimonium Chloride, Disodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride, Silk Amino Acids, Phospholipids, Tocopherol Acetate,  Fragrance.

Commentary:  Before we get all excited about these ingredient lists provided by Michel Raviol, we need to grasp the reality of what he shared.  He clearly states in this post that these are the ingredients from the original formulas.  That means that these lists date back to 30+ years ago.  It is unknown to what extent these lists reflect the Les Pooch products of today.  Surely the products have undergone some changes since the 1980's. Chemical suppliers are constantly innovating, and their line-ups change and evolve.  Since Les Poochs markets themselves as "using only the finest ingredients" (website), we would expect their current ingredients to reflect some of the advances that have occurred in the available chemicals.  Without knowing the current ingredients, we cannot say much about whether the products live up to the marketing claims.  The Hypoallergic Shampoo does appear to be a very basic formula without any potentially sensitizing ingredients.  With a simple sulfate formula, I am sure it is a great cleanser.  But is it worth $140 a gallon?  LP justifies the price by the concentration, it dilutes 25:1.  That may have been unique years ago, but today high dilution is a common feature.  The Creme Rinse looks like it was of the high end for the 1980's pet grooming market, but pretty average for today's crowded marketplace.  What makes the Les Poochs products stand out are the designer fragrances.  They have passed the test of time and remain remarkable for today's marketplace.  For the upscale salon seeking to make a fragrance statement, these fragrances can be worth the price.  

Related Articles: 
Les Pooch Discloses Ingredients - Why Are We Disappointed?
Les Pooch Puppy Shampoo Ingredients
Les Poochs F&T Revealed


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